Long Hot Summer

We have now been cruising for 6 weeks. In that time we have only had to close in the canopy twice for rain, and temperatures continue to climb across France, a change from recent years, as we seek shade, mooring under trees when we can. The concern is that some canals are running low on water. So far it has not been a problem for us, Antiope needs less than a metre to float.

The Burgundy waterways, of central France 

From Migennes our route has been southwards along the Nivernais, Loire Lateral, and onto the Canal du Centre, joining the Saone river at Chalon sur Soane.  

A stork nest alongside the canal

 The Canal du Centre was completed in 1793 as a link between the navigable Loire river which runs westwards to the Atlantic coast and the Saone river which runs southwards towards the Med.
It is claimed the Leonardo da Vinci had a hand in the planning but the engineer Emiland Gauthey completed the surveying, he found 'straight lines boring' so the canal is a delight to cruise with gentle bends following the contours of the hills. 

The Canal du Centre runs through the Cote de Beaune wine region.

The hotel boat 'Finesse'  

The Canal du Centre is a popular route for the luxury hotel boats, A typical double cabin aboard these boats can run to US$1800 per night  

A well cared for lock keepers house

In a deep cutting we find this mural, solely for the eyes of passing boats. 

 

We cross over the Loire river at  Digoin

                              

Montceau les mines, a lift bridge in the middle of town.

The cruise so far has been one of exploring new territory slowly. At Chalon sur Saone we have the option of returning North via the Saone and the Burgoine canal or retracing or route via the Loire Lateral canal perhaps with a diversion to Paris.
What a delightful dilemma to have 

 

The Nivernais

We have reached the summit of the Nivernais canal. It is 10 years since we first cruised this waterway, in a hired craft on an exploratory mission to see if we liked cruising in France and Europe.
The answer was yes, and Antiope has clocked over 2500 hours or over 10,000 miles since then.

260 m above sea level, lake Baye was created to provide water for the canal

The Nivernais is arguably the prettiest waterway in France

This waterway took from 1764 through to 1841 to be completed, The northern end was originally used to 'Flottage' rafts of firewood down river to Paris mostly along the route of the Yonne river.

From the Morvan forest logs were cut and Rafts of 100 m assembled. 

Full moon, A view from the window one long summer evening 

For the past month we have cruised slowly South enjoying great weather. often remote with poor internet reception, however the world dramas do filter through. Cave rescues, The Brexit mess, France scoring goals. Novichok.     

Veselay the vast Basilica on top of 'The Eternal hill' 

We take a day off the boat to visit Veselay. On the pilgrim route construction began over a thousand years ago. The Crusaders assembled here on their way to Jerusalem.

 

Close to the summit, up in the hills.

The locks are all manned on this waterway, 

Dramatic cliffs at Rochere du Saussios

We find surprisingly little traffic on this remote waterway

Across the watershed, we will be descending the locks on waters that will end up in the Med.

The longest day in Auxerre

We grab a prime spot on the Auxerre waterfront 

Tis mid summer and we spend the longest day in Auxerre. Our last visit here was 10 years ago aboard a Locaboat hire craft when we were testing the waters before taking on Antiope. This is a town that deserves more than just a fleeting visit, and a week on we are still here. Visitors with a car joined us aboard for a few days, providing the perfect excuse for a run to the Burgundy wine region and a heady drive along 'La Route des Grand Crus' tasting a few wines along the way.

Wars have been waged for control of these vineyards

The view from Antiope, 11 pm on the longest day.

The clock tower dates back to the 15th century and was built on the foundations of the original Roman Castrum

Once underway we plan to head South along the Nivernais canal, one of the oldest and remote waterways in France.

Watch this space, Cheers Charles and Annie

 

Afloat at last

A grey sky morning, and splash day.

Five weeks after we step aboard, Antiope is on the move

It has been a great relief to be afloat again. turn over the engines, and feel the boat move under our feet.

Annie, wine in hand, happy to be afloat again.

Lifeboat Drill

Antiope remains on dry land while we wait for our canopy repairs to be completed, however life is not boring as we find ourselves hooked into local events. The annual Migennes festival became an excuse for Simon to show off his lifeboats.

                    The immaculately restored lifeboats take center stage at the local festival.

Our new Flexiteek deck is laid.

Just like a new one.

A great day as our new deck arrives and it was a relief to see that it fitted perfectly from our amateur made template..  

A boatyard BBQ alongside Antiope.

Taking a BBQ break from working on our boats and over a wine or two we hatch a plan to take out one of the rowing lifeboats.

 

A hot afternoon on the Yonne river 

                            The Earnest Dresden under oar power for the first time since 1933

                                         Simon at the helm, delighted to have 8 willing crew. 

 The coming week should see Antiope back in the water, after a little longer on dry land than we have hoped, however our plan this year was to get a bit of work done before we play.

As I write the All Blacks have just thrashed France 52 /11

Cheers from Antiope

The Lifeboat man

Not what you expect to find in the middle of France

Simon Evans owns and runs his Boatyard in Migennes France, I suspect as an excuse to support his passion for collecting and restoring old lifeboats. Aboard 'Earnest Dresden' he hoists her new sails for the first time in over 80 years. 

Getting ready for a boat festival in town this weekend

To anyone who has ever been involved in boat restoration the task looks overwhelming, but we were here 5 years ago and have seen the progress. Simon says that this is his own collection and if he were to part with any of his lifeboats, it would be on strict condition that they returned to their old stations and were kept in their original form.

 

Around the yard are a dozen or more vintage lifeboats 

Alongside afloat two more French lifeboats await their turn.

Another RNLI  craft  afloat and ready for the show.

A WW2  Airborne lifeboat.  

Under wraps is one of only a few surviving wooden airborne lifeboats designed to be light but strong enough to be dropped from an aircraft. Built by 'Fairy Marine' they were the forerunner of the popular British post war 'Atalanta' yachts.

Aboard Antiope, our fitting out is moving along steadily, slowed by patchy weather, lifeboat restoration and French public holidays. We are expecting the new deck to be fitted next week and canopy work to be completed.  Looking forward to getting back afloat soon.

Meanwhile we are enjoying the social company of other boaters working on their own craft around us. 

Cheers Charles and Annie

Springtime and back aboard

We have arrived back aboard Antiope in Migennes to find that all is well with our ship. she has survived the winter storms that swept through France. My crude framework still intact.

                    A warm Spring day at the Boatyard . Tarpaulins removed and all is dry

Our first task has been to strip off the old and tired teak decking in readiness for the new Flexiteek deck, a synthetic lookalike which has been made up in La Rochelle over the winter. It was a great relief to find the steel deck underneath the teak still in good condition.

 

Neil Spencer, our Aussie crew wades into the old decking

This has been a long overdue task. We knew when we first bought Antiope that the aft deck needed to be replaced, It was a teak veneer and had worn very thin in places  The plan is to have the new deck fitted and some other tasks completed by the end of May. If all goes well we expect back in the water sometime in June.

The new deck has already been made up to a template that we supplied, hopefully it will fit !  At the moment it sits on the factory floor in La Rochelle

Watch this space.

Cheers Charles and Annie.