Tuesday 29 August 2023

How fortunate we are.

 For the past few weeks we have been exploring a little bit of Friesland. This northern region of the Netherlands is a magical water world. The Friesian people remain very proud of their province. They preserve their own language and dialect, are unreservedly friendly and love their boating. 


Our current position, amid the lakes and channels of Friesland

Or, as our local area shows on our plotter screen, a maze of waterways


There are literally hundreds of tranquil and free mooring places like this.


A quiet evening on Pikmeer 

'Sate chicken', work in progress



Another still morning, moored just outside Heerenveen


Spot the hopeful heron!

Stork nesting sites are encouraged in Friesland

Looking for frogs!

We have to replenish stores from time to time, so a sortie into Leeuwarden (Ljouwert) is no hardship. It is the provincial centre and we are able to moor midtown, in park-like surroundings. 
 

Our park-like mooring in Leeuwarden

Our arrival in Leeuwarden is by way of a number of lift bridges, from complete sections of roadway lifting to the sky to the more sedate mid city bascule type, all of which open with minimal delay or fuss. A very prominent feature when approaching the town is the unfortunate leaning 'Oldehove' tower which was started in 1529 and was originally planned to be over twice the height. However, after 4 years into the project, it started leaning and was never completed.  


This strange sight greets us as we arrive. The Oldehove tower, Leeuwarden  

The city bridges, a tight fit for some craft, big and small!

Popular boat tours circle the inner city waterways



                     
At the other extreme, this bit of roadway lifts to the sky!

Amid all this tranquil scenery, it is hard to imagine that here was a theatre of war still within a lifetime. 
In the heart of the Alde Feanan national park is this poigant memorial to the crew of a crippled British Lancaster bomber R5682 that crashed here on the night of 5th September 1942 narrowly missing the village of Warten. Of the seven crew only four survived the parachute jump. The pilot and rear gunner went down with with the plane. This memorial was inaurgurated in 2018 on the anniversary of the liberation of Friesland and after the last remains of the aircraft were salvaged from the waterway, including the body of the rear gunner.  



Thursday 10 August 2023

Rembrant and more

 Last month we took Antiope into Amsterdam. Annie and I took time out to expand our cultural knowledge with a visit to the Rijksmuseum. On my must see list, there among the art classics, was Rembrandt's masterpiece 'The Night Watch'. However, it is in the midst of a six year restoration programme, with the process continuing in full public view. A full digital scan is just part of the process. 

'The Night Watch' measures 3.6m x 4.4m

                                    
                                                  This copy is on display alongside 
 
I spent a long time in the museum's boat room where these minutely detailed models of Dutch vessels through the centuries were displayed.

This is just one small section of the model boat room in the museum.

Under way once more, we had family aboard for a few days, as we head North via Muiden and Enkhuizen to Lelystad and a convenient rail station.

Muiden lock, Toby and Becks on deck.


Departing for the long haul back to New Zealand

From Lelystad with a high winds and rain forecast, we headed inland via the Southern Polder navigation to Zwolle, dropping down below sea level once more. With us this time we had another couple of guests aboard, Jack Nazer and his sister Carol. Despite the weather, cruising is still possible with care through the sheltered inland waters of the Netherlands.

Navigating with care.

We did find a delightful waterway off the busy commercial route and cruised the Overijsselse Vecht river all the way to Ommen, the practical head of navigation for Antiope.

A quiet backwater and off the commercial waterway.

Vechterweerd lock, much like an English Thames setting 


One of the fully automated ferries that cross the river

A break in the rain, on the Overijsselse Vecht river

An enterprising Zwolle flower shop advert.

The 'Zespri' stall on Zwolle market day.

The old Zwolle city walls remain partly preserved.

 
Twilight at 9.50 The days are beginning to draw in! Zwartsluis August 10th