Over the top

Having resigned ourselves to having to return Northwards via the Nivernais canal, water shortages and a lock failures having curtailed our plan to cruise eastwards to Nancy and Metz, we figured that we might as well take a very leisurely saunter along this charming nearly two century old waterway. The last time we came this way it was not enjoyable, in miserable weather and probably in a hurry to make a rendezvous.

Typical of the Nivernais, a gently winding canal and elegant bridges.

The lock cottages were well built back in 1834  

The climb to the summit level from Decise involves 35 locks, and not a problem if taken in daily bites. Antiope does like a metre of water to float in, at times however close to the top locks this was all we had beneath us.

Annie on lock duty

The skipper on BBQ duty

At the summit, the massive lakes at Baye and Vaux provide the water for the high reaches of the Nivernais, a reminder of the engineering feat involved in creating this 180 km waterway through the high central regions of France and a vital link between Paris and the Med.
 

We moor lakeside at Baye at the Nivernais summit

From Baye we cruise through the hill in a series of tunnels carved out of the solid rock before the steep descent through 27 locks in only 10 kms.

No passing room here, The Collancelle tunnels.

A rare sight in France these days, wooden lock gates

We cruise for some days with Kiwi friends aboard Petronella 

 The impressive limestone cliffs at Merry-sur- Yonne

Once through the steep descent the waterway cuts a straight line through flat farm lands

These simple but clever 'needle' wiers on the Yonne river. 

Down from the hills the River Yonne begins to supply the Nivernais with water, the river levels are controlled these days by mechanical barrages (wiers) but in some places the original hand 'pulled' needle wiers have been preserved and restored.

The Nivernais will take us to Auxerre where we rejoin the Yonne river and what has become our local waters and completing the 'Burgundy loup'

It Ain't half hot !

This July has been the hottest on record across France, even where we are in mid France the mercury has topped 40c more than once.

From our smartphone last week, but this was not on the hottest day !  

 While we have been able to avoid cruising in the heat of the day and find shade under trees, the continuing dry weather is causing chaos on the waterways. With no significant rain since May the reservoirs that feed the canals have all but dried up. Our planned round trip up the Soane river to Nancy and then down the Marne has also been thwarted by a munted lock on the Yonne river at Villeneuve. The damage is severe and will not be fixed before the end of the season. We have had no choice but to turn around and head back up the Nivernais canal in order to get back to our winter base in Migennes.

Burgundy region canals and rivers, as of 1st August our options are limited, The only route open to us is the Nivernais. 

 Ours is not the only region with issues. We hear that some lifting bridges in the Netherlands are not opening just in case they cannot close them again in the heat.

   

The lift bridge at Montceau les Mines, This was to be the furthest point of our cruise.

We had reached Montceau-les-Mines when we learned of the broken lock, followed by the restriction and closure notices. Along with many other craft we have had to revise our plans or risk getting stuck somewhere until the rains come.

We arrive in Digoin as they are setting up the firework display on the Aqueduct

 Bastille Day, La Fete Nationale, is marked across France with bands, parades and always a firework display.

The Mayoress inspects her fire brigade in scorching temps 

Pomp and speeches 

Perfect ballooning day

Ducks, almost in a row

A Ragondin (Coypu ) a common sight in the early evenings

Yes, Storks too

   

Up the Loire valley

It is now July and we have been cruising gently over the hills along the Briare canal which connects the waters that ran down to the Seine and the English Channel ( la Manche) with the waters of the Loire which runs Eastwards to the Atlantic. This is one of our favourite regions of France. In Montargis we find ourselves in the middle of a Maritime festival weekend. Masked performers paraded silently among the visitors, all very French.

Montargis boat festival and on show the traditional Loire river craft 

In the shade for a rest

These costumes must have been very hot in the high 30c temps 

The Briare aqueduct, always  impressive, takes the Briare canal over the Loire river.

Below the aqueduct as we cross, the Loire river is very low

Rogny-les-Sept-Ecluses The seven original staircase locks, replaced in 1830 

 The original Briare canal was modernised in 1830 replacing many of the old lock structures that had been working since it opened in 1642 one of the earliest  north south waterways in France.

The Briare canal is a popular route for the luxury hotel boats

Sancerre a fine wine region

We climb 10 metres at the impressive Guetin double lock on the Loire lateral canal close to Nevers.
Under clear blue skies some days we have experienced temperatures of 42c while record highs of 46c were recorded in Southern France.
All this dry sunny weather is no good for the canals, Navigation restrictions are being introduced across the French waterway system,
fortunately we are in no hurry.


What has Antiope and this medieval castle got in common ?

Guedelon castle, 23 years in the making, built entirely medieval tools and methods.

                          Answer- They are the same age, 23 years old.

We took time out, to visit this incredible project, hidden deep in the Morven forest. A no mucking about, full on fortified castle being built from scratch and they working on it, stone by stone. Yes, with regular bits of rock quarried on site and chipped by hand onto shape. Some 23 years ago in the same year as Antiope was launched, this site was a bare clearing in the forest.

Each stone shaped by hand

Flax rope being spun by hand

For more info you should look at  www.guedelon.fr

Our plans from here will depend partly on the rain gods. The canals need water and while we do have optional routes and plenty of time, we are staying close to the Burgundy region. 

Summer has kicked in

As I write we are moored in Montagis and one of our favourite stops. The forecast is for highs of 35C or even higher this week. We are not complaining but a mooring under a tree takes on a new meaning. Our cruising plan for this season remains fluid with no adventurous destination in mind. we are moving more slowly allowing time to re-visit and explore towns and villages we had previously passed by.

Cruising more slowly this year

   

A shady backwater mooring in St Moret sur Loing.

An added complication is the lack of rainfall over winter in the Southern areas of France. which may restrict or close navigation on some waterways, as the reservoirs are at record lows and weed growth on the canals is thick this year. A chat group of other boaters keeps us informed of what is ahead.

Local young folk cool off at Moret sur Loing

Commercial Traffic on the Seine seems light this year, these barges moored up in St Mammes are waiting for freight. 

Barges rafted up in St Mammes on the Seine

                                          A few more pretty pictures along the way.

Wild poppies alongside the lock at Nemours

What, no bread?

   

I couldn't resist adding this pic



 
 

This waterway once 74 kms long ran to Orleans. We take a walk along the towpath.

   

Launch day and other diversions

It is late in May and while Antiope was still on dry land we take a couple of weeks away to England. It was a mix of social visits and attending the funeral of an old sailing crew mate. That occasion was a celebration of a life well lived and a reminder to all of us not to waste our own.

Gloucester docks, a stormy day and a tall ships festival

We included a visit to good friends in the midlands and had an invitation to the Tall Ships festival in Gloucester docks, many miles from the open sea and a place we had visited in our narrowboat days. 

Vilma, the topsail schooner restored by Scott Metcalfe

Scott Metcalfe made us welcome aboard Vilma, his topsail schooner having sailed her down from North Wales for the festival. 

The sail training ship Royalist alongside the converted dock warehouses.

The largest tall ship was the Royalist which only just to made the trip along the now shallow canal from the Severn river.

 Back in France once more we find John and Rosemary have arrived at Simon Evans yard for their 7 year out of water survey and a bit of maintenance, and another excuse for a bit of socialising. We really should get going so after a good hull polish we are finally ready to launch Antiope.

John and Rosemary Stoppard high and dry aboard Petronella

                                         Simon can we go boating please? we ask politely

After we fix the crane!!

Always a nervous moment, will she lift?

We take a short trial run up the river to the sound of a 'singing' propeller, it was one that had been repaired over the winter and rather too well balanced, the high pitched tune was just a bit too annoying to tolerate at cruising revs, so it was back into the slings for adjustment and let Simon gets to work with his grinder.

The offending prop

Precision work 

Job done, and singing cured. Thanks Simon

 As I write we are on our way to Auxerre, amid sunshine and showers. We need the rain, the reservoirs are low across France.

May 2019. A new Season begins

Back aboard Antiope 

Migennes, France, We arrived in early May to find Antiope had survived the winter well, On a cool morning we set about taking the covers off and dismantling the temporary frame. The plan was to spend a week getting ready for launching however a change of plan has us flying up to England, to see family and attend a funeral. Launch date has been set for May 31st. 

This sums up the mood in England right now. What a mess!!!

Cheers Charles and Annie